Burgers and fries, Squamish
Today I went climbing with Julien and David in Squamish, more precisely on the Burger and fries cliff in the Smoke Bluffs. The routes were exactly our level, going from 5.7 to 5.10c in the US (Yosemite) grading system, meaning from 4c to 6b in the French grading system. The routes were not that busy so we could experiment and repeat climbs several times before moving to the next route. The granite rock offers a great grip for foot but little edges for fingers (which means my fingers will remember the grit of Burger and fries for a while....It somehow reminded me of the climb of the Sugar Loaf in Rio de Janeiro, as there was hardly any hold for hands and it was mostly footwork. The rock was rather abrasive and we think we lost some gum on our shoes, especially on the 5.10c/6b Predator that took us a while to master (even on a second time!, hence Julien’s frustration on the picture below, trying to run his way up). Although this was one of the hardest routes I ever did, it surprisingly did not feel hard on the arms, maybe because with the tiny fingers holds, there was a clear limit on the strength we could pull from our arms! Footwork, mostly.
The place was not too crowded for a long weekend+sunny day and we managed to switch the rope from one route to the next without having to wait for another team to move away. The fact that the routes could be top-ropped very easily was also a great point, maybe not appreciated by the owners of the houses sitting on the top of the cliff, whose great views were kind of spoiled by the recurrent apparition of sweaty and cursing climbers.
After finishing the day on Burger and Fries itself (an easy 5.7/4c with a nice crack), we packed before a thunderstorm broke and drove back to Vancouver, passing by the tantalising Chief cliff, which is a big wall dominating the Squamish shores and which would have required a guide (but feasible since the grading seems to start at 5.10a/5c…)