Climbing in Morgiou

On Thursday evening, my son and I went climbing—along with Jean-Michel Marin who took those pictures—in the vale of Morgiou, on a spot called Royaume de dégun (dégun meaning nobody in the local provencal dialect, the name is apparently borrowed from a book by Gilles Del Pappas with the same name published in 2002). As we were in a hurry for the evening meal, we only tried the easiest route (5a). It took us a while to find the way into this small cirque, although it  is only 20mn from CiRM,  and it also took some pondering before going through the swarm of bees that elected the rock crack next to the path as home… But the nice thing was that, by 6pm, the rock was in blessed shade. The limestone rock is fairly characteristic of the area, with tiny “water droplet” holes for fingers and a very good grip for the feet. Most of the routes (including one called théorème de l’engambi, like most routes there a reference to a book by a local author, not to a climb by a visiting mathematician) in this spot are 6a/6b, because the cliff starts to lean forward at the top. I hope we can find some time to go back and try the 5c routes…

2 Responses to “Climbing in Morgiou”

  1. […] hundreds of fully equipped climbing routes in the Calanques, the nearest ones being 20 minutes from the […]

  2. […] on Morgiou I went back climbing to Morgiou on Saturday night, achieving an easy 5c there but my son was in a hurry to get back to CiRM to […]

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