Archive for Abele Blanc

on Monte Rosa [a failed attempt at speed climbing]

Posted in Kids, Mountains, pictures, Running, Travel with tags , , , , , , , , , , , on July 24, 2016 by xi'an

With my daughter Rachel and her friend Clément, we tried last week to bag a few summits in the Monte Rosa massif, which stands between Italy (Aosta) and Switzerland (Zermatt). I wanted to take advantage of the Bastille Day break and we drove from Paris to Aosta in the very early morning, stopping in Chamonix to rent shoes and crampons, and meeting with our guide Abele Blanc at noon, before going together to the hut Rifugio Città di Mantova. At 3500m. Our goal was to spent the night there and climb to Punta Gnifetti (Rifugio Margherita) and Zumstein the next morning. Before heading back to Paris in the evening. However, it did not work out that way as I got a slight bout of mountain sickness that left me migrainous, nauseous, and having a pretty bad night, despite great conditions at the hut… So (despite my intense training of the previous weeks!) I did not feel that great when we left the hut at 5am. The weather was fine if cold and windy, but after two hours of moderate climbing in a fairly pleasant crispy snow of a glacier, Rachel was too out of breath to continue and Abele realised my nose had [truly] frozen (I could not feel anything!) and took us down before continuing with Clément to both peaks. This was quite a disappointment as we had planned this trip over several months, but it was clearly for the best as my fingers were definitely close to frozen (with my worst case ever of screamin’ barfies on the way down!). And we thus spent the rest of the morning waiting for our friends, warming up with tea in the sunshine. Upon reflection, planning one extra day of acclimatisation to altitude and cold would have been more reasonable and keeping handwarmers in our backpacks as well… In any case, Clément made it to the top with Abele and we got a good altitude training for the incoming San Francisco half-marathon. Plus an epic hike the next day around Cogne.

sunset over Rifugio Città di Mantova

Posted in Kids, Mountains, pictures, Travel with tags , , , , , , on July 22, 2016 by xi'an

up to Rifugio Città di Mantova

Posted in Kids, Mountains, pictures, Running, Travel with tags , , , , , , , , , on July 20, 2016 by xi'an

Abele Blanc tops Everest

Posted in Mountains with tags , , , on May 25, 2010 by xi'an

From the website Forte di Bard today:

Abele Blanc in cima all’Everest senza ossigeno.

Abele Blanc, Marco Camandona, Michele Enzio e Silvio Mondinelli raggiungono la vetta, immersa nelle nubi, in una mattina di discrete condizioni meteo. Ora la lunghissima discesa verso il campo base.

So they have at last reached Everest from the North side after many days of waiting for a proper weather window. The website of Silvio Mondinelli states that Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner topped with them. Remember this is only a training climb before Abele Blanc attempts Annapurna for the sixth time…

Abele Blanc’s new attempt on Annapurna

Posted in Mountains, Travel with tags , , , on April 25, 2010 by xi'an

The guide we met last summer in Aosta, Abele Blanc, is now back to the Himalayas to try his last 8000’s, Annapurna, for the 6th time. The expedition is monitored on the site of Fort di Bard. He plans to climb the north (TIbetan) face of Everest to acclimatise (!) before attempting Annapurna in May. Without oxygen. For the Everest climb, he is part of a team involving Silvio Mondinelli, another Italian climber who reached all 8000’s.