Archive for ice climbing

a faint memory of ice

Posted in Books, Mountains, pictures, Running, Travel with tags , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on March 17, 2018 by xi'an


During the past week of vacations in Chamonix, I spent some days down-hill skiing (which I find increasingly boring!), X-country skiing (way better), swimming (indoors!) and running, but the highlight (and the number one reason for going there!) was an ice cascade climb with a local guide, Sylvain (from the mythical Compagnie des Guides de Chamonix). There were very options due to the avalanche high risk and Sylvain picked a route called Déferlante at the top of Les Grands Montets cabin stop and next to the end of a small icefield, Glacier d’Argentière. We went there quite early to catch the first cabin up, along a whole horde of badasss skiers and snowboarders, and reached the top of the route by foot first, a wee bit after 9 pm. A second guide and a client appeared before we were ready to abseil down, and two more groups would appear later. On touring skis. Continue reading

off to Chamonix!

Posted in Mountains, pictures, Running, Travel with tags , , , , , , , , , on March 2, 2018 by xi'an

The Terminal [#2]

Posted in Mountains, pictures, Travel with tags , , , , , , , on February 19, 2017 by xi'an

blurFor the third time within a year, I have been stuck in an airport hotel by missing a connection! This time on my way to Calgary, thanks to fog over Paris and Amsterdam. And to Air France refusing to switch me to an earlier flight from Paris. Not as strictly stuck as in Delhi, as I could get outside in a sort of no man’s land between runways and expressways, or even reach downtown Amsterdam by public transportation, but with 24 hours to wait for the next flight. The most frustrating part is missing the ice-climbing day I had organised in Banff…

Climbing Ice – The Iceland Trifecta

Posted in Mountains, pictures, Travel with tags , , , , , , on July 1, 2016 by xi'an

ice-climbing Niagara Falls

Posted in Mountains, pictures with tags , , , , , , on March 1, 2015 by xi'an

I had missed these news that a frozen portion of the Niagara Falls had been ice-climbed. By Will Gadd on Jan. 27. This is obviously quite impressive given the weird and dangerous nature of the ice there, which is mostly frozen foam from the nearby waterfall. (I once climbed an easy route on such ice at the Chutes Montmorency, near Québec City, and it felt quite strange…) He even had a special ice hook designed for that climb as he did not trust the usual ice screws. Will Gadd has however climbed much more difficult routes like Helmcken Falls in British Columbia, which may be the hardest mixed route in the World!

icefalls on Ben Nevis

Posted in Mountains, pictures, Travel with tags , , , , , , , on January 31, 2015 by xi'an


benThe seminar invitation to Edinburgh gave me the opportunity and the excuse for a quick dash to Fort William for a day of ice-climbing on Ben alNevis. The ice conditions were perfect but there was alas too much snowdrift to attempt Point Five Gully, one of the mythical routes on the Ben. (Last time, the ice was not in good conditions.) Instead, we did three pitches on three different routes, one iced rock-face near the CIC hut, the first pitch of Waterfall Gully on Carn Dearg Buttress, and the first pitch of The Curtain, again on Carn Dearg Buttress.

The most difficult climb was the first one, grading about V.5 in Scottish grade, mCICaybe above that as the ice was rather rotten, forcing my guide Ali to place many screws. And forcing me to unscrew them! Then the difficulty got much lower, except for the V.5 start of the Waterfall, where I had to climb with hands an ice pillar as the ice-picks would not get a good grip. Breaking another large pillar in the process, fortunately mostly avoiding being hit. The final climb was quite easy, more of a snow steep slope than a true ice-climb. Too bad the second part of the route was blocked by two fellows who could not move! Anyway, it was another of those rare days on the ice, with enough choice to worry about sharing with other teams, and a terrific guide! And a reasonable dawaterfally for Scotland with little snow, no rain, plenty of wind and not that cold (except when belaying!).

icicles on the Ben

Posted in Mountains, pictures, Travel with tags , , , on January 25, 2015 by xi'an